Beauty Cosmetic Recipe: Making Natural Soap from Scratch
Whether you choose to make soap for your own personal use or for gift
giving, you will no doubt be hooked after your first batch. The following
instructions are designed for both our kits and soap making from scratch.
At Cranberry Lane our mission is, To pioneer a standard of excellence in
education, service, and products, that support the earth and body with integrity
and vision.
We hope that you enjoy the art of soap making as much as we do, one batch or
many. We are always interested in feedback and questions, so please fax, mail,
or e-mail us. See our on-line catalogue and newsletters.
If you enjoy making your own Natural Beauty Care products, you’ll love our line
of Make-it-yourself body care kits. With Cranberry Lane’s tried and true
formulas and quality ingredients, you can make all-natural products as
individual as you are - and at a fraction of the cost.
Soap: What is it and where does it come from.
Until the early 1900’s, much of the soap used was made at home. Fats from
cooking and butchering were saved until there was enough to make a batch of
soap. This all changed in 1916 when a shortage of fats (a main ingredient in
soap) occurred during World War I. As an alternative was needed, enterprising
companies developed the first synthetic soaps called detergents.
With a wide variety of oils available today, making your own soap is once again
very inexpensive, and a good choice for those concerned about quality, health
related benefits, and the environment.
Successful soap making today is a result of a much better understanding of
chemistry, experience, and a wider variety of ingredients to choose from.
Today's soaps are milder and better for skin thanks to the availability of
vegetable and plant based oils.
Chemically speaking, soap is a salt. An acid and a base react with one another
and are neutralized to form a salt or soap. A more basic explanation is: oils or
fats combine with Sodium Hydroxide or “Lye” in a process called saponification
to produce soap.
Hand made soap retains extra glycerin, known to soften the skin naturally.
Glycerin is one of the best known humecants (attracts moisture to the skin). It
is often extracted during the process of manufacturing commercially made soap,
then sold as a valuable by-product. Natural ingredients are rarely used in
commercially manufactured soap. If used at all, it is sparingly. One of the best
advantages of making your own soap is that you are in charge of quality control.
You decide which ingredients to use and how much.
Animal versus Vegetable-based Soaps
Originally, all soap was made from animal fats — mainly lard from pigs and
tallow from cattle. It was readily available and at the time no one questioned
the use of animal by-products. Over time, new oils were extracted from
vegetables, grains and nuts providing an alternative to animal oils.
Vegetable oil soaps are chemically superior and can be of higher quality than
soaps made with animal fats. Vegetable oils are more readily absorbed by the
skin while animal oils have been found to clog pores and aggravate certain skin
conditions, such as eczema.
The Soap Process
Natural hand-made soap is not difficult to make, once you understand the basics.
You can make a batch of soap in as little as one hour, depending on the formula.
The following is the basic formula for making all soap:
Fatty acid (oil) + Base (lye) = “A Salt” (soap)
The oil or fat is heated gently. Lye and water are combined separately. When
both ingredients reach the required temperature, they are combined. When the
mixture becomes the desired consistency, it is poured into a mould. The bars are
then removed from the mould after setting up (approximately 24 to 48 hours).
They are restacked and allowed to “cure” or dry until hard. This can take
anywhere from 3 to 8 weeks depending on the formula.
There are 3 keys to successful soap making:
1. Accurately weighed ingredients.
2. A good formula.
3. Proper technique.
Cold Process Method: This process is widely used by home-based soap makers. The
neutralization stage takes place during the moulding stage. Our kits follow this
method.
Semi-boiled Method: After the soap mixture traces, heat is added using a
double-boiler to cause the soap to neutralize before being moulded.
Full-boiled Method: This method is where all ingredients are prepared in one
large container. Heat is added causing neutralization. Large commercial
manufacturers use this method to achieve the by-product called glycerin.
Transparent Soap: This soap is made clear by adding solvents such as alcohol to
prevent crystals from forming as the soap cools. Transparent soap is often
referred to as Glycerin Soap. However, this is a fallacy as glycerin is not
needed to produce a clear or transparent soap. This soap can be drying to the
skin.
Melt and Pour Soap: Or also known a solid Glycerin blocks. Pure glycerin, animal
or vegetable derived, is always liquid and can only be solidified by the
addition of plastizer chemicals. To produce a foam, detergents are added. This
method is simply making soap from soap and is more expensive than starting from
scratch. Melt and pour soaps may have natural ingredients added to them but they
are synthetically based.
Preservatives
A preservative is defined as something that protects against decomposition.
However, nature has its own agenda and decay is inevitable. There are no
preservatives, synthetic or natural, that can completely stop this process —
they can only slow it down.
Oxidation occurs within fats/oils which causes rancidity and spoilage to occur.
Carrot oil, Vitamin E oil, and Grapefruit Seed Extract are three natural
preservatives that are recommended. They contain powerful anti-oxidants such as
vitamin A, E and C, which can help prevent spoilage.
The formulas in this booklet do not require any additional preservatives, unless
you choose to add an ingredient that is vulnerable to rancidity, i.e. fresh
fruit or vegetable matter.
Equipment Needed
* One large stainless steel mixing bowl (the larger the better). This greatly
reduces the amount of splatter leaving the bowl during the mixing process
* One heat-resistant container that hold 2 cups (glass Pyrex works well) to mix
Lye and water. Note: Using a large container may result in rapid heat loss and
temperatures not reaching their goal
* A container to heat oils. If using the stove, a stainless steel pot will do.
If using the microwave, use a microwave-safe container
* Candy or meat thermometer made of glass and stainless steel (having two works
best — one for the lye and one for the oil)
* Protective wear: long sleeved shirt, pants, shoes (no bare feet), glasses and
rubber gloves. Keep a bottle of vinegar nearby to neutralize lye spills
* Soap moulds; plastic, cardboard, or wood (use wax paper to line, see “Soap
Moulds”)
* Measuring spoons, pot holders or oven mitts, and plastic spatulas
* Digital scale, accurate to at least two grams (if not using our kits)
Soap Moulds
Generally, you can use just about any type of plastic, wood, or cardboard as a
soap mould. Do not use tin, aluminum, Teflon, or copper as they react with the
lye. Candy and candle moulds may work well, too. If you want something simple,
choose a square or rectangular container and cut the bars to size after your
soap has set. Cardboard milk or juice containers work well as they are coated
with wax.
To make round soaps try recycling a plastic bottle. Using an empty, clean,
plastic pop or round shampoo bottle, carefully slice the sides of the bottle
lengthwise. Tape sides using plastic packing tape to prevent leakage. Pour the
soap mixture and let set for required amount of time. Peel tape back and release
your soap, then cut the bars to a desired size. Set to cure as usual.
If you are having trouble getting your soap to release from the mould, try
placing it in the freezer for two hours. This will cause the soap mixture to
shrink from the sides and make removal easier.
To help with release, use vegetable shortening to grease your moulds. Cardboard
or wooden moulds require a combination of waxed paper or freezer paper and
vegetable shortening.
Tip: Line your moulds with brown freezer or butcher’s paper. Apply some
vegetable shortening to the inside surfaces of your mould, lay in some freezer
paper, shiny side up, and trim to fit. After removal, simply peel off the paper
from your soap block the next day. Soap Making: Cold Process Method
Carefully read the sections on Caution, and Soap making: the procedure
before beginning. One of the most common mistakes soap makers make is not
weighing the ingredients carefully. This is a crucial step. Make sure you use an
accurate digital scale to weigh your oils and your Lye.
Each premixed bottle of oil makes approximately 700g of soap. You can combine
several bottles together to make a larger batch, however, it is a good idea when
making soap for the first time to make small batches in order to learn as you
go.
1. If making soap from one of our kits, set one of Cranberry Lane’s pre-mixed
oil bottles in a hot water bath to liquefy contents (do not microwave these
bottles). When the oil in the bottle becomes clear, pour into a 2 cup measuring
cup. Be sure to get all the oil out of the bottle.
If making soap from the “Soap Formulas” guide, accurately measure all oils
required for your soap recipe using a digital scale.
2. The Oil Phase. Gently heat oils using one of these two methods:
Stove Method: Use a stainless steel pot on the stove. Be careful not to burn
oils.
Microwave Method: Use a microwave-safe container for your oils. Heat for 1
minute on high, then use 20 second intervals thereafter, until the required
temperature is reached. (150�F, 65�C for our Basic or Deluxe Soap Making Kit).
Skill tip:
Heat oil to 10�C past the required temperature per formula. This will allow time
for the lye to cool to its correct temperature. Always heat oils before mixing
lye and water.
3. The lye/water phase. Pour room temperature distilled water (amount specified
by formula) into a clean glass 2 cup size measuring cup. (If using our Basic,
Refill, or Deluxe Soap Making Kit use 3/4 cup) While stirring, slowly add one
bottle of lye. This mixture will quickly become very hot. Continue stirring
until the water turns clear. Do not inhale the fumes. Place a candy thermometer
in the cup, do not rest it on the bottom as it will give you a false reading —
keep it somewhere in the middle. Let this mixture cool to the required
temperature (refer to “Soap Formulas” for temperatures or use 150�F, 65�C for
our Basic or Deluxe Soap Making Kit).
4. Pour the hot oil into a large mixing bowl. Use a plastic spatula to get all
the oil out of the measuring cup. When both oil phase and lye/water phase have
reached their required temperatures, slowly pour the lye/water mixture into the
oil mixture while stirring in rapid, small circles.
Note: Always add lye/water to oil, not the other way around.
Continue to stir this mixture even after you have finished combining the two
parts. Use a rapid, figure 8 pattern for stirring — being careful to incorporate
the sides as well.
5. Stir the soap mixture until it “traces”. This is a term to describe the
consistency or thickness, and the stage where the soap mixture is ready to pour
into moulds. Tracing is easily recognized. Using a plastic spatula, drizzle a
small amount across the top of the soap mixture. If a mark or trail remains for
a few seconds before disappearing again, your soap has traced. The mixture
should be the consistency of liquid honey or pudding before it’s poured. If your
soap takes a little longer than normal, don’t worry — just keep stirring and it
will eventually trace.
Tracing time for formulas can vary greatly; affected by room temperatures,
humidity levels, and the speed of stirring. The tracing time for our formulas
are based on normal room temperatures 20� to 23�C and average humidity levels.
6. After the soap traces, you can add your own herbs and essential oils (see
pages 12-13 for some great ideas). Do not use perfume, synthetic fragrances, or
extracts of any kind as the alcohol content may interfere with the soap making
process.
7. After adding any additional ingredients, pour your soap mixture into the
mould. Place a piece of clear plastic wrap on top to create an air barrier.
Cover your mould with a blanket or towel and place in a warm location away from
drafts and children’s reach. Let set undisturbed for the specified moulding time
as stated in the formula for your oil blend.
Moulding tip: Grease your mould with vegetable shortening for ease of release
later. Wear gloves during clean up and use hot water and dish soap to remove all
residue from equipment.
8. When removing soap from the mould, wear gloves to protect your hands. The
soap may be slightly caustic at this stage and can irritate your skin. Gently
press the back of the mould. You may find twisting the mold slightly works as
well — same technique as removing ice from ice cube trays. If your soap will not
release easily, try placing the mould in the freezer for one hour. Freezing
causes moisture loss and the soap will contract and pull away from the edges.
Use a large knife to cut your soap into desired size bars. (Note: colour may
fade in soap placed in the freezer)
9. After soap has been cut into bars, place them on a piece of wax paper or
plastic wrap in a cool, dry, dark place to cure or age as specified in each
formula. This time is necessary for the moisture to evaporate. Using the soap
prematurely will lead to a spongy bar that may not lather or last very long.
Wait for at least three weeks before finishing your bars (see section on
“Finishing”.) After your bars have had a chance to dry or cure they will be able
to with stand some rough handling. All good things take time! Write down the
date of unmoulding and keep it with the curing soap as a reference.
Within 1/2 hour of pouring your soap into the mould you should notice it
becoming hotter and turning dark in the middle. It can become quite dark and
somewhat transparent. Bubbles may also come to the surface. This is a sign that
your soap is properly neutralizing. It should stay hot like this for several
hours before cooling and becoming light in colour again. Soap that is not
properly insulated, cooled too much during tracing, poured into too small a
mould, or with initial temperatures too low may not completely neutralize.
Making Liquid Soap
Because of the moisture content of a natural liquid soap, they can be
susceptible to rancidity. Keep your liquid soap in a cool dry place and in an
air tight bottle, preferably with a pump or flip top to dispense your soap.
1. Follow the procedure for making soap as specified in the formula, with one
exception — no curing time.
2. After you have removed your soap from a simple mould, shave, shred or chop
the soap into small pieces.
3. Place one cup of shredded soap in a double-boiler and add 3 cups of water.
Stir continually on medium heat until melted.
Note: Soap may not completely melt. There may be small pieces that do not break
down, simply strain them out.
4. When all the soap has melted it should be very runny. If not, add an extra
cup of water.
5. Add four tablespoons of vegetable Glycerin and 1/2 tsp. of Grapefruit Seed
Extract to help preserve your liquid soap. You may also add any essential oil to
scent before pouring your liquid soap into bottles. Try adding 6 - 10 drops per
500ml. Your liquid soap should have a shelf life of approximately 6 - 8 months.
Our shampoo refill kit or shampoo recipe melts into liquid soap very easily. It
has a large proportion of castor oil and makes a softer bar of soap. Soaps that
are made with soft oils (oils that are liquid at room temperature) make softer
soaps. Although initially softer, many of these soaps will still cure to become
very hard bars. A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO MELT & POUR SOAP RECIPE
GETTING STARTED
Melt-n-pour soap base is a near neutral substance (ph neutral) and requires no
specific materials for the utensils you use when creating your soaps. You can
choose to make small batches, simply using a microwaveable bowl or jug, or
larger batches, where a saucepan on a hob is more practical. Whatever you are
doing, the most important thing to remember is not to overheat your soap base.
You need only heat it until it melts and no further (exceptions to this rule are
the Natural or Organic bases which should be heated to 75degC to avoid
'blooming' in the finished soaps). Cutting the soap base into small chunks will
help this, especially if using a microwave, although small chunks will melt far
easier with any method used, so it's worth the time in doing this.
If using a microwave it is unlikely that you will be able to melt enough soap to
make more than 3-4 bars. Most mass produced moulds for bar-sized soaps will
contain about 70g of soap, so use this as a guide when weighing out your soap
base for melting if you are going to be using a mould. With the soap cut into
small chunks and put into a suitable sized microwaveable container, simply use
the microwave on full power for a few seconds at a time, checking to see when
the chunks have melted fully. Around 15 seconds for a single soap bar batch
using a typical domestic microwave is a guide, but check yourself, as microwaves
vary considerably and overheating is easy using this method.
Once melted you need to work fairly fast, as a skin will start to form quite
quickly on the surface of the soap. It is whilst the soap is fully melted that
colour, fragrance and any other additions such as irridescent powder or dried
flower petals etc are added. Simple food colours can easily be used, as can
liquid soap colours and other water-soluble liquid colour bases. Obviously the
depth of a particular colour is dependent upon how much is used. Don't be
tempted to over-colour your soaps, especially if using a clear soap base, as the
transparency of the finished soap will be affected if too much colour is used.
Fragrance can be added either using essential oils or simple fragrance oils,
which are available in a huge range of tempting fragrances these days. Again,
strength of fragrance is dependent upon the amount added. For a meaningful
fragrance, around 20ml fragrance per Kilo of soap is sufficient, so a few drops
per single bar is fine. Irridescent powders or glitters will sink to the bottom
of a mould if added in too-larger amount, so be sparing for best results.
You will need to stir in all these additions quickly and pour into whatever
mould you are using before a skin forms as this will spoil the finish of the
final bar. There is nothing to stop you from quickly re-heating the mixture
whilst it is still in its microwaveable container, but remember that a few
seconds is all it will need. Too much heat will evaporate the fragrance, so
avoid this if you can.
Try not to intoduce bubbles into the soap mixture as this will also spoil the
final appearance. The mixture starts to set quite quickly, trapping any bubbles
or other imperfections, which is especially problematic when using a clear base
to make a transparent soap.
If making larger numbers of bars or maybe a loaf, it is much more suitable to
use the direct - heat method. That is to say, heat the required volume of soap
in a suitable pan on a hob. There is no need to go to the trouble of using a
double-boiler, but you must ensure you don't overheat the soap, otherwise there
is a risk that it could burn, although you'd probably have to have a lapse of
memory and leave it for some time for this to happen. Use a thick-bottomed
suacepan over a low heat.
Cut the soap into small pieces to help it melt quickly and evenly. Gently heat
over a low setting until the mixture is completely liquid. At this stage and
whilst still over a very low heat, add the colour and fragrance desired. It is
at this stage that irridescent powders can be added also, together with other
additions for texture, such as oatmeal or desiccated coconut, which are 2
examples of useful additions to give an exfoliating texture if desired.
The addition of extra ingredients is more leisurely using this method, as
continuous low heat is available to keep the mixture from forming a skin. Again,
be careful not to introduce bubbles if at all possible. Fragrance should be the
last addition, as heat will cause some evaporation. Again, work on around 20ml
of fragrance or essential oil per Kilo for a meaningful fragrance.
Once all ingredients are added, pour carefully and slowly into the mould and
allow to cool. Larger quantities of soap will require longer time to cool. The
filled mould can easily be refrigerated to speed this up. Support large moulds
in a bed of sand or rice to prevent distortion.
REMOVING SOAPS FROM THE MOULD
Removing individual soaps from moulds is perfectly simple. Be sure to leave the
soap to cool completely. If using a suitable mass-produced mould, which will
have a shiny surface, the soap will release with slight pressure. More complex
or larger moulds can require some force. To help remove a soap from a large or
complicated mould, ensure it has fully set and put it in the freezer until quite
cold throughout (don't actually freeze it), When you remove it from the freezer
the change in temperature on the surface of the soap will help it release from
the mould. This method can be especially useful when making large loafs or
slabs, which are to be cut by weight or into bar sizes later.
There are a great many household objects that can be used for simple moulds
without having the expense of buying specific ones. The best material is
slightly flexible, smooth surface plastic, like sandwich containers and beakers.
Small freezer containers are often a perfect bar size. Also, if you want to pour
the soap into a sheet for cutting into shapes, a fairly rigid non-stick baking
tray is fine, as plasitc trays tend to warp with the heat when the soap is
poured, causing an uneven thickness in the soap sheet.
Having mastered the technique af actually shaping, colouring and fragrancing
soap, there are a great many simple techniques to make your soaps more
interesting
MORE INTEREST IN YOUR SOAPS
Melt-n-pour is so simple it lends itself to experimentation. My first simple
experimental soap was a 'Jam Tart' soap, which was well received by small
children and a great way of adding a little fun to a childs bathtime. The simple
techniques of combining sheets of soap which can be separately coloured and/or
fragranced and easily rolled or shaped whilst still slightly soft, with a
separately coloured/fragranced soap poured into or around the shape can result
in a huge variety of colours and appearances. Use opaque soap within a clear
soap to show off the colours and shapes within to their best.
The simplest technique is to colour a small amount of opaque soap base and pour
it into a shallow mould. Once set, cut into small chunks or flakes. Make up a
complimentary coloured batch of clear soap base. Place the chunks in the mould
for the final soap and pour the second, clear soap into the mould over the
opaque chunks. This gives a simple and effective appearance to an otherwise
plain bar.
Pouring opaque coloured soap into sheets and then slicing into thin lengths is
easy to do. These thin strips of soap can be easily shaped whilst still soft
into many different shapes, like spirals and barley-twists, which again can be
put within a mould before pouring a clear and complimentary coloured soap over
it.
'Swiss Roll' loafs are also easy to achieve. Find a suitable loaf mould and
measure the length. Pour a sheet of coloured soap and cut it to the same width
as the mould is long. Let the sheet set for a while and whilst still soft, roll
it up loosely (or lay 2 or more different coloured sheets on top of one another
and roll together). Place the roll into the loaf mould and carefully pour the
clear soap base into the mould, slowly, allowing it to flow between all the gaps
in the roll. Let set and slice for best effect.
My 'jam tart' soap was simply made from a sheet of opaque white soap, coloured
very slightly with yellow soap colour to achieve a cream colour. The sheet is
cut using a pastry cutter into tart rounds and pushed into the recesses of a
non-stick baking tray that would normally be used for real tarts or maybe
Yorkshire puddings (you know the type). This is left to set completely and then
a second batch of clear soap is coloured red and fragranced strawberry. This is
then poured into the cupped shapes in the baking tray and left to set. The
result is quite convincing.
Soaps can be poured in layers of colour within either a large or small mould.
Picking out the detail of a delicate mould by pouring an opaque soap base into
the surface irregularities, letting it set and then pouring another colour over
it will leave a detailed 'picture' on the surface of the soap bar. This is
especially useful in enhancing soaps with flowers or butterflies etc. on their
top surface.
Melt & Pour soap can be whipped into a smooth mouse-like substance whilst still
quite hot, usind an electruc hand-whisk, then used as a convincing 'icing' on
soap cakes or other toiletries like bath bombs. Simply spoon the whipped soap
over the area to be covered and spread if required. Make sure to do this before
it starts to set-up. The 'iced' surface can easily be decorated before it forms
a skin, with glitter or flower petals etc..
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